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Puppy Training Made Possible
You can do this! It may not be easy, but it is possible. With the right combination of attentiveness and reward, you can teach your puppy to respond to over 25 voice commands in just a few weeks. By the time most puppies are starting basic obedience training at around 4 months old, yours can be house trained, well mannered, cooperative and obedient.
You want your puppy to let you know when they need to go potty, go potty outside, sit down and wait politely for a treat, take food gently out of your hand, lay down, come, walk on a leash, and much more.
Here is a list of things I like to start teaching my puppies in the first 2 weeks, while refining potty training:
- Go potty outside,
- Go Poopy,
- Ring the bell,
- Finished,
- Go outside,
- Go inside,
- Good puppy,
- Come,
- Sit,
- Down,
- Wait,
- Gentle,
- Give,
- Kennel,
- Settle,
- I will be back,
- Leave it,
- No,
- Get your chewy,
- Off,
- Take it,
- Find it,
- All done,
- Beg,
- Shake,
- Kisses,
- Eat,
- Drink,
- Ouch-no bite,
- Quiet-no bark,
- Speak,
- Load up,
- Manners,
- Take a bath,
- Go to bed,
- That’s enough,
- Walk on a leash,
- Respond to their name
Are you ready to get started?
Step 1: Positive Reinforcement / Clicker Training
The only supplies you need are a clicker and special treats. I use "Pupperoni" treats, they are soft and can be cut into pea size bites. You want to introduce your puppy to the clicker. It is very simple, give a treat-click, give a treat-click. Use these treats in the beginning of a new behavior to lead your puppy into positions, and when you want them to work extra hard for you. You can use their regular food for most of their training.
There are many ways to train animals, I and my animals prefer positive reinforcement training. When you reward good behavior, they repeat it. That does not mean that they do not get told no and corrected when necessary. We do not use or promote the use of physical or emotional abuse. Clicker training is used to train dogs, horses, farm animals, wildlife, marine mammals, zoo animals, circus animals, and even children.
The clicker is used to mark the exact moment the animal has performed a specific behavior, or is moving in the right direction, and is a promise of reward to come. Clicker training can be a bit awkward at first. It helps if you have 4 hands. One for the leash, one for the treats, one for the clicker and another to help direct the dog. Good luck with that.
Training off leash is a great way to start, you only need 2 hands. For example, when the puppy sits down, "sit" - click - "good sit" - treat. When the puppy starts to walk toward you, "come" - click - "good come" - click - "good come" - click - treat, when they get to you. You can use the same technique even if you don't have a clicker or treats handy. Use your voice, body language, and reinforce with positive attention. A pat to the head, a rub of the ears, or a scratch to a favorite spot is almost as good as a cookie, just not as precise.
Step 2: Training Opportunities
I like to break it down like this:
Training by Chance - Start out by catching your puppy doing what you want them to, tell them what they did, "sit", click, "good sit", treat.
Training by Nature - Click and treat for appropriate natural behaviors, like going potty, eating, drinking, giving kisses. Many times you can anticipate behavior before or just as they do it.
Training by Design - Lead your puppy in a situation where they do what you ask, settle, down, sit...
Training by Example - Just like kids, puppies learn from other dogs. If you put them out with a barking dog, they will learn to bark. They can also learn trained behaviors from other dogs.
Step 3: Communication
I know it may seem silly, but you are teaching your dog a new language. You want them to respond to your verbal commands, so you have to speak to them. Tell them what each behavior is called in your language. Pretty soon it will seem like they understand English.
Mama dog has already taught puppy a few things, she has taught them to respond to a growl, a yip, a playful tone, and expressions. Use your voice, your “no” should be like a warning growl, sharp and low. “good dog”, should be playful and sing songy. “Come” should be fun and playful. “Ouch”, should sound like a yip, high pitched and sharp. Puppies seem to recognize a hiss sound as a universal warning. I use it to stop bad behavior or to get their attention.
Step 4: Crate Training
You know that kennel you invested in? Do not be afraid to use it. It is not cruel and unusual punishment! Dogs by nature dig dens for safety and protection from the elements. Their den or kennel is a great place for potty training, napping, sleeping at night, safety when you need to leave them alone for a few hours, or just can't watch them for a short period of time. They instinctively try to keep their den clean. Even though it seems that your puppy has to go potty every 15 minutes, they can miraculously go for several hours, and even all night inside their kennel.
When your puppy matures a bit, and they are less destructive, more respectful of your space, and potty trained, you will use it less often. Basically their den size will grow to include your entire house.
If you are going to be gone for a couple of hours, make sure puppy goes potty first, then put them in the crate before you leave. They will most likely sleep the whole time you are gone anyway. You can always make sure they get a good romp and playtime before you leave and/or when you get back. If your schedule takes you away for more than a few hours at a time, you can place the open kennel inside a utility room or bathroom with a potty pad on the floor, or teach them to use a doggy door. Always give them a designated place to go potty.
You can help prepare your puppy for the first night by crate training the first day. Put them in the kennel and shut the door. When they escalate to a yip or bark, say “shh”, “no”, “quiet", or settle”. It helps if you teach settle outside of the crate first. Make sure you use your grrr voice. They may stop only long enough to look for another way of escape, but when they do, say “good settle”, or "good quiet", in your happy voice. This is a good time to use your clicker and treats. Just give them the treat through the grate. If they start to escalate or never take a breath, a squirt bottle usually works. Keep in mind poodles are super smart. If they figure out how to get you to give them attention even for bad behavior it will become a reward and they will keep it up. You might try sitting beside the kennel, rather than in front of it. When they throw a fit, all they see is a hand and squirt bottle come around the corner.
Step 5: The First Night
“You use what works for you until it does not work any more”. Instinctively puppies whine, yip or bark when separated from their family. From the moment they are born they call out to mom and the rest of the litter. It is a matter of survival that they stick together for safety and warmth.
Since this is probably the first night away from mom, the litter, or original family, your baby is probably going to be very vocal. You must be calm and consistent in your tone and physical responses.
There are no short cuts, you have to get through the first night. If your puppy is training to be a service dog, they will probably end up sleeping next to the bed on the floor, or in bed with someone. Personally I would not like to wake up with a mess on the floor next to my bed, or in my bed, so I use a kennel to start. I put the kennel on the floor, next to my bed. Without getting up and giving undue attention, I can growl, and praise. I can also hear the baby when they do their “I have to go potty” whine. Depending on the age of the puppy, that can be every 2 hours, 5 hours, or until morning. Do not worry if they wake you up every 2 hours, it should only be for a few nights. The idea is to make sure every time they alert you that they need to go potty, you give them that opportunity.
Unless you are used to getting up every 2 hours, you might want to have their leash, and your robe and slippers handy, as you are stumbling toward the door. Quietly pick up the puppy from the kennel and carry them outside to go potty. Tell them what you expect, “go potty”. As soon as they do, tell them “good go potty”. With a hug and a scratch behind the ears, put them back into the kennel and shut the door. Remember, this is not play time. Turn off the lights and go back to bed. Yes you need to carry your puppy outside, otherwise as soon as their feet hit the floor outside the kennel, or while you are trying to get the door open, they may relieve themselves. This saves you going outside in the cold, instead you have to clean up a mess, not the results you are looking for. Yes they may fuss when you put them back to bed. Every time you consistently follow through, gets you closer to a quiet nights sleep. Most puppies are sleeping through the night after 3 to 5 days.
Step 6: Potty Training
Now that you survived the night, the first thing you need to do the next morning, is carry puppy outside to go potty. As you are going to the door, tell them, "let's go potty OUTSIDE". I always like to emphasize the outside part. Wait for them to go pee and poop. Here is your chance, at the first signs (sniffing, circling, squating) tell them what you want them to do, click, tell them what they did, reward. Do not let them roam around the house until they have gone poop outside. If they do not finish the job, put them back into the crate for 30 minutes and try again. Right after they eat breakfast take them back out. They will have to pee and poop again. Same routine, if they don’t do both, put them back into the kennel for 30 minutes and try again.
I like to use a bell on the door, so puppy can tell me when they need to go outside. Every time I take them out for the first few days, I hit the bell with their paw. I lower the bells to as high as the puppy can reach with their front feet off the ground, they can play with it, but not really reach with their mouths to chew on it. Make them stretch. Pretty soon they will be tall enough to reach them with their nose, and old enough to not try to eat them. Once your pup figures out that ringing the bell gets them outside. They will take you out 20 times the first day. Even if you have a safe and secure place for them, it is important to go out with your puppy and reward good behavior. Remember, “good go potty OUTSIDE”, and a treat.
There will be accidents. Unless you catch them in the moment, say nothing, and do nothing. If you catch them going potty inside, say “no”, pick them up and calmly take them outside, carefully set them on the ground, tell them, “go potty outside”. Give them a few minutes. Then calmly take them back inside. Consider the age and mental capacity of the animal you are training. These little guys are 2 to 3 months old, they want to keep their den clean. That is why kennel training is so effective. However they have no idea the size of your den. They have limited range, and everything is new and exciting. Which brings us to a good point, when puppies get excited, nervous or scared, they pee and/or poop. So playing, waking up from a nap, eating, bath time, haircut, trimming nails, can stimulate them to relieve themselves. Carry them outside and give them a chance to go potty before you let them roam free.
Most of us can not just stop doing everything else and devote a week to potty training a puppy, so you have to be especially aware of their actions while you go about your day. Some of my puppies like to romp and run around in circles before they can go poop, others just go out and get the job done. So watch for signs that they are looking for a spot to go potty. Sniffing, circling, squatting, and running in circles are all good indicators that it is time to go outside. Some puppies will go to the door, some will whine or bark, some will quickly learn to ring the bell.
I found bells designed to hang on the door. They have a loop to go over the door knob and the bells are big and loud, attached to a piece of leather. The important thing is that they are large enough to hear from another room and attached well enough that they are not a choking hazard.
Warning! Do not click while the puppy is going potty. They may get excited and forget to finish. So when they stop peeing and stand back up, or totally straighten their back and take a few steps, then click, tell them “good go potty OUTSIDE”. After they go pee, I ask them if they have to go poop. If they are still sniffing around, tell them “go poopy”. When they are done, I say, “good go poopy OUTSIDE”, then ask “are you done”? When they are finished, (click, click, click) pat your leg to encourage them to come to you, “good go potty OUTSIDE”, "good come".
If you think your puppy is done, but they do not come to you, just wait a bit longer. When I ask "are you finished?" some act like, oh, silly me, I forgot to poop, as they run back out and finish. Others just completely ignore me until they are done. Watch for the responses of your specific dogs.
Step 7: Treat Training
Treats can be very helpful in leading your puppy into position, and as a reward. The two most common problems we run across are, the pup may be over aggressive in taking the treat, or does not seem interested at all. The goal is to teach the puppy to take food gently out of your hand, and only with permission.
Overly assertive puppies may get a finger to get the treat. They need to learn respect for your hands. There are a couple of ways to let them know that putting their teeth on your skin is not acceptable. Put the treat in your closed hand. Now is the time for your most dramatic performance. As soon as they grab for it, yelp like a wounded puppy "ouch", and draw your hand away. ONLY give them the treat after they wait for you to open your hand completely and offer it to them. Next you can encourage them to take food gently by holding the end of a chewy treat, and let them take it off in pieces.
The other extreme is puppies that don't seem interested in treats. Start by putting small morsels in their dish with their regular food. They will quickly acquire a taste for the goodies and start picking them out first.
Step 8: Basic Training
After just a few days, your puppy will be ringing the bell, to let you know they need to go outside, going potty, running back inside and sitting down waiting for their treat. Expect a few mis-haps along the way, but you are on your way to being a dog trainer with a well trained dog.
I am pretty sure your puppy will give you many opportunities to teach them what "no" means. This may need a bit of reinforcement to get the point across. Don't wait until your puppy takes a bite out of your nose, and you react with anger instead of reason. When puppy does something you don't want them to, like chewing on your shoes, or biting your fingers, in a sharp voice, say "no". It may take more than a bark to get their attention. I try to take advantage of their natural instinct to chew on everything, including each other, and me. Almost every puppy will put his mouth on your fingers. When they put their mouth on a finger, simply press the thumb and finger together holding onto their face, while saying "no". You can make it uncomfortable, but there is no need to cause them pain. They will soon understand that no means stop what ever you are doing.
Be aware that chasing after a dog when they run off with your socks, is the reward they are looking for. Puppies use this technique to entice each other to play all the time. Go ahead and bark at them, they like it. I teach "leave it", in the first few days. It is really simple. Put your dog in a down position, place a treat on the floor in front of them. When they reach for it, place your hand in the way, say "leave it". Depending on the temperament of the dog will determine how fast, and how strongly you will have to enforce that they are to leave it alone. Wait for it, as soon as they take their eyes off the treat, or better yet, turn their heads away. Click, say "good leave it". Count to three, say "take it", and give them the treat. Repeat this several times.
Many of the commands explain themselves.
Sit - Hold the treat in your closed hand, and push it toward their nose, and up slightly. When they sit down (click), “good sit”, open your hand, give them their treats.
Wait - You will notice that your puppy comes in and sits down to wait for their treat. Take advantage of that moment, say "wait", count to 1, "good wait", treat. Next time count to 2, then to 3...
Come - Walk over to your dog, pat your leg, say “come”. As soon as they turn your way, (click), take a step, if they follow, (click) “good come”. After a few steps, give them a treat.
Down - Lead their nose toward the ground with a treat, say “down” (click), “good down”, treat.
Beg - Hold a treat straight above their heads. Reward them for reaching for it.
Watch it/Find it - Put your puppy in a sitting position, say "watch it", drop the treat. If the treat bounces away, say "find it". If they look to you for guidance, point to it. It teaches them to follow their eyes, their nose, and following your direction.
Once you understand the basics, you can use these tools to teach your dog many things.
Step 9: Confidence Building
Your puppy is in a quick transition from total dependence to independent and self confident. They are learning to trust you and to trust their own instincts and abilities.
You can test your puppy by leaving them alone in the house for a few minutes at a time. Take one day and go in and out several times. Get completely out of their sight and earshot. If your pup is ready for that degree of independence will stay out of trouble. Obviously if they are getting into mischief when you are in the house they are not ready. If as soon as you walk out the door they tear things up, get into things, or tear around worrying, they are not ready. Give them a little more time, they will soon settle in and pretty much ignore your coming and going.
Step 10: Freedom at Last
Even though the crate has been a very useful tool, it is a relief when it is no longer a necessity. The idea is to give your puppy the confidence and training to be loose at night, wait in the car without eating the upholstery, or be alone in the house without distress to you or them. Once they have reached that point, your dog may still use it on occasion for a safe haven, or you may use it to keep them safe while traveling, or when there is just too much activity in the house.
HAPPY TRAINING!
